This is the first time I have every written out a USM or any pattern. Please read carefully and ask for clarification if you need to.
Hood
KP#3 throughout the project
PF (pull forward) 80 needles
Hang rag hem or weighted hem
Knit 8-18 rows WY (waste yarn)
Knit 16 rows of main yarn
Using the transfer tool pick up the beginning loops and hang them on the working needles to create a casing.
Reset RC (Row Counter) to 000
Knit 44 rows of MY (main yarn)
Bind off using a crochet bind off (closed)
Fold the rectangle in half and Kitchener-stitch the edge opposite from the casing.
Mark the center of the back/bottom of the hood where the row of Kitchener meets the back edge with a stitch marker or contrasting yarn.
Mark the center point between the Kitchener row and the join of the casing with a stitch marker or contrasting yarn on both sides of the bottom edge of the hood.
Back
PF (pull forward) 110 needles
Hang rag hem or weighted hem
Knit a few rows WY (waste yarn)
Reset RC (Row Counter) to 000
(Optional eyelet row– knit 4 rows, create eyelets as desired. My eyelets are 5 needles apart. Continue to knit to row 80)
Knit 80 rows of MY (main yarn)
Decrease stitches to EON (every other needle)
Move stitches over so that there are no empty our out-of-work needles
Knit 10 rows
Bind off using a crochet bind off (closed)
Mark the center of the back at the top edge with a stitch marker or contrasting yarn. This is where the center hood and center back will attach.
Remove rag hem and WY
Front
PF (pull forward) 110 needles
Hang rag hem or weighted hem
Knit a few rows WY (waste yarn)
Reset RC (Row Counter) to 000
(Optional eyelet row– knit 4 rows, create eyelets as desired. My eyelets are 5 needles apart. Continue to knit to row 50)
Reset RC (Row counter) to 000
Right upper side of front
This will create a slit in the middle of the upper front
PF (pull forward) 55 needles on the left side of the front piece to FNWP (forward non-working position).
Knit 30 rows of MY (main yarn) adjust weights accordingly.
Row 31 - Decrease EON (every other needle).
Move stitches over so that there are no empty out-of-work needles
Knit 10 rows
Bind off using a crochet bind off (closed) but leave the right side of the front piece on the needles. PF (pull forward) the needles to FNWP (forward non-working position)
Reset RC (Row counter) to 000
Left upper side of front.
Push the 55 needles on the left side of the front piece to FWP (Forward Working Position).
Knit 30 rows of MY (main yarn) adjust weights accordingly
Row 31 - Decrease EON (every other needle)
Move stitches over so that there are no empty out-of-work needles
Knit 10 rows
Bind off using a crochet bind off (closed)
Joining
(Right sides together) - Match the Hood center bottom with the Back center bottom and sew together using a modified mattress stitch.
CE (casing edge)
M (stitch marker)
CM (center marker) (also marks Kitchener row on bottom edge of the hood)
FLS (first left stitch of a row)
FRS (first right stitch of a row)
CFS (center front split)
Bottom edge of Hood
CE………………..M………………..CM………………..M………………..CE
Top edge of the Back
FLS………………..M………………..CM………………..M………………..FRS
1. Match the Hood bottom edge and the top of the Back here. Remember that the outer ¼ edges of the hood are to be seamed with the front of the cape.
(seam here)
CE………………..M………………..CM………………..M………………..CE
FLS………………..M………………..CM………………..M………………..FRS
2. With the knit side (right side) facing you, seam the Back and Front shoulders together.
(seam here) (seam here)
FLS………..HOOD & CENTER BACK SEAM…………..FRS
FLS………..………........……..CFS.…….……....…..………….FRS
3. Stitch the remaining ¼ edges of the Hood bottom to the remaining inner edges of the Front on either side of the CFS (center front split)
DO NOT seam the casing to the front, but leave it extended over the edge of the center front split.
(seam) (seam)
FLS………..………........……..CFS.…….……..…..………….FRS
4. Blanket stitch the side seams of the Front and Back
5. The shoulders will have a sharp corner, which I stitched down to give a soft curve to the shoulder. This area can also be trimmed, add epilates, etc.
6. CFS (center front split) Beginning on the left side of the CFS at the base of the Hood, sc (single crochet) to the end of the CFS on the right side. Chain 1, turn and sc in the next 3 sts (stitches), chain 4, skip the next 4 sts and sc in the next 8 sts, sc in the remaining sts of the CFS slst (slip stitch) in the last sc. Crab stitch to finish the edge of the CFS placket.
Sew the buttons onto the left side of the placket. This is a garment for a female so the placket should have a right-over-left flap (if you are wearing the garment, the right flap will lap over the left side. The buttons will be on the left side.
REMEMBER: I used large buttons. Adjust the number of buttonholes and the size of the buttonholes to your buttons.
Trim
Bottom of the cape trim
Trim color yarn (white) sc 1 row. Crab stitch 1 row.
Edge of hood trim
Where the casing is folded (face edge), sc between the knit stitches for 1 row. Crab stitch 1 row.
I-Cord
I don’t use a rag hem for the I-Cord tie.
PF 4 needles and double ewrap cast on. Hang some weight and knit the length of cord desired. Bind off. I use the yarn tails to do a quick 1” seam along the beginning and ending of the I-Cord. Pull it through the Hood casing and steam the cape.
Thanks so much for posting the pattern!! It is just soo cute!
ReplyDeleteThat is really cute! I've made ponchos, but never a cape. Not sure my 5 year old is a cape girl, but it would have been great at Hallowe'en.
ReplyDelete